There's a reason Brooke Shields has kept her brows full and bold more than 30 years after slipping into her Calvins: "Thick brows speak to health and vitality," says makeup artist Pati Dubroff. "Thin brows say the opposite."
Apply with purpose: To believably fill, use two brow pencils, one that matches your hair color (for the front of the brow) and one that's slightly darker (for the arch and tail), says makeup artist Charlotte Willer. Try Nars Brow Perfector . Draw in little upward strokes. The inner two-thirds should be the thickest part, says brow specialist Maribeth Madron. To blend the two shades, brush hairs up and over with a spoolie wand. For especially sparse brows, Dubroff spoolies a brow cream on top of the pencil for extra density.
the benefit: lifted eyes
Been told you "look tired" one too many times lately? Put down the concealer and pick up an eyeliner. "After your twenties and thirties, the corners of your eyes tend to be a little more droopy," says Dubroff. "A wing at the outer corner gives eyes a nice lift."
Apply with purpose: You want an ultrafine-tipped liquid liner in a dark shade. Try (on model) Cargo TexasLiner Liquid Eye Liner in black or CoverGirl Bombshell Intensity Liner by LashBlast in Chocolate Kiss ($7, at drugstores). Pale-colored liners don't provide enough definition, while brights can be distracting.
Start with the wing—Dubroff "matches the length to the outermost lash length"—and work your way backward, making the line thinner as you move inward.
PASTEL EYE SHADOW
The benefit: larger, brighter eyes
Brown shadow might be a good everyday basic, but it's also pretty blah. "With light colors, it's like shining a flashlight on your eyes, making them appear bigger and fresher," says makeup artist A.J. Crimson.
Apply with purpose: Almost any sorbet shade goes (exception: pale pink, which can make eyes look tired). But if you want to be strategic: Robin's egg blue and lilac make eye whites look whiter (try Almay Shadow Softies in Lilac, $5, at drugstores); pale peach puts a sparkle in blue eyes (try CoverGirl Eye Enhancers 1-Kit Shadow in mink, $3.19, at drugstores); and pistachio green or mint enhance the green flecks in hazel eyes (try Maybelline New York ExpertWear Eyeshadow in Emerald Smokes, $5, at drugstores). Prevent a chalky effect by choosing a shade with a hint of shimmer.
To further cut ashiness, first brush on a flesh-colored shadow, says Dubroff. Then layer the pastel from lash line to just above the crease. The finishing touch: heaps of black mascara.
The benefit: a more pillowy pout
If you have little lips, you might steer clear of attention-grabbing lipstick shades and favor more muted hues. But the truth is, bright is better, says Dubroff. "When you use a light shade—like nude—on thin lips, they can easily disappear or appear sunken," she says. "You absolutely need to bring some color to the mouth."
Apply with purpose: Look for bold (but not dark) shades, such as corals or vibrant pinks. The way they attract light makes lips look juicy, says Crimson. And speaking of light reflection, sheen also helps lips appear fuller, so go for a creamy or satin finish. On model: NYC Expert Last Lipstick in Coralista .
Use the lipstick bullet to slightly round out your cupid's bow; doing this instead of using a liner prevents an overdrawn effect. Color shy? Swipe the lipstick on your index finger, then press it into the center of your lips, fading the color out toward the edges.